Month: August 2022

Dogs Can Count

Dogs can count. Not really “1, 2, 3” kind of counting, but they are aware of quantities. You’ve probably noticed it when you take out two treats and give your dog one. They wait, sometimes not very patiently, for you to deliver the goods.

When one is many

Understanding how your dog perceives quantity plays a role in reward-based training. Let’s imagine your dog has done something  spectacular and you want to give them a “jackpot.” Most people will grab a handful of treats and present the bonanza cupped in their palm. 

That’s a mistake. No matter how many tidbits were in that palm, it counts as one to your dog. What makes a super-special “jackpot” to your dog would be single morsels, delivered to his/her mouth individually. Even if it’s the same number of treats. Maybe even if it’s fewer.

Value is you

You can easily test this for yourself. Count out a pile of five treats. Give your dog the treats as a clump, from your open hand. Chances are your dog scarfed them down and looked to you for more. 

Later on, maybe after another 2-Minute Dog Training session, give another five treats. This time, deliver each one directly into your dog’s mouth with your fingers. We’ll bet your dog will be happier and more satisfied with this method.

Give and take

Aside from the counting aspect, the difference in delivery is significant. In the first case, the dog is taking the treats from you. In the piece-by-piece scenario, you’re giving the treats to your dog. Especially in training situations, you want your dog to look to you for guidance.

You don’t always have to control every aspect of your dog’s behavior. But you always want your dog to trust that you have every situation under control. It leads to a more confident, calm dog. When your dog knows that he’ll be rewarded by you when he does what you want, every time, he’ll come to love the game. You’re ultimately transferring the value of that reward to you.

Treat delivery matters

Simon gets a treat for his "High Five" behavior - far back in his moutn.
Simon getting a treat for his “High Five.”

Especially in puppy classes people are resistant to placing treats directly in their dogs’ mouths with their fingers. It makes sense – puppy teeth can be sharp as needles and hurt.

It’s best to deliver the treat as far back in the dog’s mouth as you can. You’re less likely to get nipped if your fingers are behind the front teeth. There is a side benefit of getting your dog used to you touching his/her mouth/teeth/tongue. This allows you to do routine grooming care like tooth-brushing.

Counting + Math

There is a study supporting the notion that dogs can not only count, they also understand simple math, similar to human babies. Use your dog’s ability and make every single reward count.

Does your dog know where his butt is?

Perch work builds dogs’ hind end awareness

Have you ever seen a dog chase its tail – either live or on video? It’s both funny and a little bit sad. Funny because it just is. And sad because most dogs don’t know they have back ends. They lack hind end awareness. They certainly don’t know that the bits back there are able to move independent of the parts up front. 

Building hind end awareness and keeping your dog physically fit are two of the best reasons to do “Perch Work” with your dog. It’s also great for teaching tight turns (for Obedience & Rally people), loose-leash walking, and proper heel position. It’s easy to do, doesn’t really need special equipment, and fits easily into a 2-Minute-Dog-Training session. (For more on your dog’s physical fitness and how we can improve it, check out the article, “Wellbeing of dogs – caring for mind and body.”)

What is Perch Work?

Simon, improving his hind end awareness with Perch Work.
Simon doing Perch Work on a feed bucket.

At its simplest, Perch Work means the dog has two feet on an elevated surface. They “perch” on some platform. It can be absolutely anything, but not too high. When introducing Perch Work, you shouldn’t use anything more than two to four inches high. We use a 4-inch step stool, but whatever you have will do. If all you’ve got is a couch cushion – that’s fine. The unstable surface will actually benefit the dog’s core strength. 

When introducing your dog to their perch, just put it on the floor and let your dog check it out. Looking at it gets a click & reward. Sniffing it is also good. Pawing at it? Great – click and reward. When your dog has done the same thing (look, sniff, paw) three or four times, wait for something more. One paw on the platform is the next step, then two paws.

Since most dogs don’t understand using their back feet and paws, it’s most likely your dog will perch with front feet first. 

Next steps

Perch work is one training game where we do use lures to teach the dog what we want. When your dog has two feet on the perch, start moving. If your dog is facing you, it doesn’t matter which way you go. Show your dog a treat and start moving your feet. If your dog swivels to stay at your front, click and reward. Move a little more and wait for your dog to take a step with his/her back feet. If your dog comes off the perch, just wait. When he/she gets two feet back up, click and reward.

The objective is to get your dog to circle the entire perch, front feet up, back feet moving. It may take a couple of sessions to build up to the entire circle. That’s okay. There’s no rush. 

Then do it in the other direction. Both sides need equal exercise and tone. Your dog may favor going one way over the other. Just like people, dogs have a dominant side they tend to favor. Be sure to “work” the other side as well.

Different positions

You should also try for Perch Work with your dog next to you. This is the part that helps with those turns for performance sports.

Whichever side your dog is on, hold the treat in the hand further away, so your dog will curve around you to find it. Then put gentle pressure on the dog by stepping slightly into him/her. This will encourage your dog to move those back feet. Again, be sure to work both directions so your dog’s skills develop evenly.

Back feet next

Whatever your dog does with front feet on the perch, they can do with back feet as well. Since this is a very different idea for most dogs, expect it to go somewhat slower. 

The easiest way to get your dog to put back feet on the perch is to have them walk across it and click as soon as the back feet are on and front are off. Most dogs will try to get their back feet off as soon as possible. If you’re in front of the dog, try to block the motion and, if the dog is still on the perch, click and reward. 

When your dog is comfortable putting back feet only on the perch, start the same circles around, both directions. Click and reward when your dog moves his back feet on the perch. 

Name that Perch Work

Decide on different names for the exercises for front feet and back feet. Very uninspired, we call front skills “Feets” and back skills “Rears.” The dogs know what they’re supposed to do. And as long as they’re getting rewarded, they don’t mind a bit.

Good Dogs Should Always Be Rewarded

We met a woman this week whose two-year-old daughter thinks their dog’s name is “Good Dog!” We laughed about it, but it rings true. This woman is so accustomed to saying “Good Dog!” it could be the dog’s name. It’s not. The dog’s name is actually Miko.

Is there such a thing as too much praise for your dog? Too many treats? Is it possible to play too many games and have too much fun with your dog?

Of course not!

Too much of a good thing

In human terms, can you ever hear too much sincere praise from your boss? Knowing you’re doing well isn’t a reason to stop trying. It’s encouragement to keep going. And maybe even try even more, since you know your efforts are being appreciated.

Simon - a good dog is rewarded.
Simon’s a good dog who’s being rewarded!

It’s very common for people to assume there’s a time limit for rewarding their dog for good behavior. Once their dog is “trained” (as if you’re ever done!), they can stop rewarding. There is no time limit. Throughout your dog’s life, let them know you like what they’re doing. They’re good dogs. And you love them. Just like no human likes being taken for granted, dogs should be appreciated just for being good dogs!

Worried about spoiling 

“But I don’t want to ‘spoil’ my dog! He’ll expect treats all the time!” 

We hear that a lot, especially from new dog owners. 

Realistically, what’s the harm in spoiling your dog? Your dog is never going to have to fend for himself in society. He doesn’t have to be a responsible citizen, get a job, pay rent, vote, drive, or even shop for groceries. Your dog’s one and only “job” is to be a good dog. A much-loved member of the family. Who doesn’t poop on the floor. 

And is it really “spoiling” if you’re acknowledging your dog’s respect for the rules you’ve set? If your dog is doing the “job” you’ve assigned, shouldn’t he be paid for a job well done? 

Let’s make it about you, instead. You have a job you love. You enjoy the work, your office, your colleagues, even the corporate culture of your workplace. Are you still going to work if you don’t get paid? (There are never too many treats in dog training either!)

Pay your good dogs

Maybe we just need a change in terms. Instead of “rewarding” good behavior, maybe we should just consider it payment for a job well done. After all, a reward sounds like a one-time deal – a single recognition of some achievement. Instead, maybe we should look at treats/playtime/praise as just part of your dog’s regular salary for being a very good dog.

Cue your dog and all his cuteness

Booker's head tilt - cue your dog.
Booker’s almost got that head tilt

You know that adorable head tilt your dog does whenever you whistle? Cue your dog’s cuteness! Dogs are capable of understanding hundreds of words – give the behavior a unique name and make it part of your dog’s repertoire!

For example: Years ago we had a Boston Terrier named Daemon. So many years ago that one of the songs on the radio all the time was Billy Joel’s “Piano Man.” Every time he heard that song, Daemon would howl, like he was trying to sing along. It was the only time he ever did it. We thought it was hilarious, and adorable. So we named it and gave him treats every time. In just a few weeks, Daemon knew it. Many days were brighter when we asked: “Daemon, are you the Piano Man?” and listening to his adorable response.

Logic isn’t necessary

Of course Daemon wasn’t the Piano Man. But he didn’t know that. You can name behaviors whatever you want. The words you use will only have that particular meaning to you and your dog. Some people use foreign phrases, made-up languages (like Klingon), or nonsense syllables. It doesn’t matter to anyone but you and your dog. If it makes you smile and you won’t be embarrassed to say it in public, go ahead!

The public part is worth noting. Because you’re going to want to show off your dog’s new trick at the next family gathering, or get-together at your place. And you want to be able to say it in front of your grandmother. Or post it on social media and make your dog an internet sensation. Without getting “bleeped.”

Anything can become a cute trick

The behavior you cue doesn’t have to be anything particularly special. Put a name to something your dog does naturally. When your dog gets up from a nap, does she stretch in a particular way? Have some treats handy and say “Good Stretch!” and reward. You can probably even predict when she’ll do it, so you can be ready. Just saying “Good Stretch!” every time you see your dog do it will evolve into a cue for the behavior. It may take a while for your dog to realize what you’re rewarding for, but it will happen. Hope was starting to teach Torque “Stretch!” He still hasn’t quite picked up on it, but Fran’s Booker did. 

“Shake!” is a good one to cue your dog with, too. Not all dogs shake themselves, and they certainly don’t all do it the same way. Fran’s Brussels Griffon Tango has the most adorable way of shaking himself from front to back – almost like “The Wave” at a stadium. If it makes you smile, it’s worth trying to cue it.

Look for special everyday

Even if you have multiple dogs of the same breed, over time or together, you know that each dog has their own personality. Those individual distinctions are what make each dog special. Capturing those with cued, natural behaviors lets you preserve each dog’s uniqueness. And the time you spend together, learning, practicing, and performing, become precious memories.