September 2020 - 2 Minute Trainer

Dogs understand the bottom line

What’s the bottom line for your dog? What are the things that he or she values most? And how can you use those high-ticket items to shape the behavior you want?

The entire basis for successful, science-based, 2-Minute-Trainer dog training is a compact we have with our dogs: they get what they want when we get what we want. It’s the best deal anyone’s ever made. Our dogs understand what’s expected of them and know they’ll be rewarded, comfortable, and loved. And we have loyal, loving, well-behaved, and adorable companions.

Adding value for everyone

What things are dearest to your dog? Is it food? Food-motivated dogs are a pleasure to train. Gratification is almost instantaneous.

Do toys and play rate highest for your dog? So much fun to be had by all with training games.

Humans and dogs both have a rating system for rewards. For most people, chocolate is more rewarding than Brussels Sprouts. Think about your dog’s preferences. One of ours adores celery – it’s a very high-value treat. When we really want him to pay attention, we have celery in our treat pouch.

Likewise, some toys are more important than others to toy-loving dogs. If you’re playing a training game, think about whether your dog will give up the toy to go back to the game, or if it’s so precious to him/her that he’ll lose interest in the game and focus instead on the reward.

Transferring the value

Simon has value for the balance disc - he gets lots of treats when he's on it.

You can use the things that your dog prizes make other “things” valuable. For example: we have our dogs work on balance and fitness on an inflatable balance disc. (A couch cushion can work just as well. For more on this, go to the post.) Whenever our dogs get up on that disc, they are rewarded. Every single time. That balance disc is one of the most valuable things in the house to every one of our dogs because they know its value.

From the dog’s perspective, it’s not the “thing.” It’s what happens when he interacts with the thing.

Say you want to start the “put your toys away” game. Start with the “thing” that you want your dog to pick up. You can use any household item; a spatula, a paper towel tube, an empty plastic jar, whatever you want.

Put the thing down in front of the dog. When he looks at it, reward. And offer the reward close to the “thing.” In almost no time, the “thing” acquires value. Dog thinks: “When I look at it (touch it, pick it up, carry it) I get something great every time. I love that thing!”

Transfer the value

It works no matter what. You can add value to any object or place, just by consistently showing your dog it’s important. Dogs love us and want to please us, but they’re also sufficiently selfish to do what benefits them. Dogs will repeat behaviors that have value. That’s every dog’s bottom line.

Pack dog training debunked

“Pack” dynamics was all the rage in dog training a while ago. There are still some remnants of it around. The objective, for those who managed to avoid the nonsense, was that you should be the “Alpha” dog – and that the other dogs would naturally be subservient.

Our domestic dogs bear very little resemblance to wolves in the wild. — Our domestic dogs are nothing like wolf packs in the wild.

Research into how dogs learn and behave has put paid to this. Dogs in human households are nothing like wolf packs in the wild. Domestic dogs are dependent throughout their lives, and more like perpetual puppies than a mature wolf pack. Pack dog training is unproductive and archaic.

Pack dog training silliness

Recently we’ve seen some dog food commercials emphasizing the relationship between wolves and dogs. While we agree that dogs aren’t designed to be vegetarians, showing majestic leaping wolves morphing into domestic dogs isn’t apples to apples. Dogs and wolves may have common ancestry, but their similarities after thousands of years of domestication are minimal.

If you’ve been following a famous television dog trainer who advocates pack structure and talks about “calming” behaviors, stop it now. It won’t help your training to think you have to dominate your dog. The best and most effective dog training forges a partnership between you. It’s not somber, it’s fun. Rather than forceful and stern, good training is playful and fun.

Go with what works

When we started in dog training, decades ago, there were lots of methods used that we now consider abuse. In obedience competition training, it was common to pinch a dog’s ear to get him/her to pick up a dumbbell. We’re sorry to admit we know of some people who still use it.

It’s not necessary. And it’s certainly not fun, for either the trainer or the dog.

Tango picks stuff up and puts them into a bin. — Fran trained Tango to pick his toys up and put them into a bin.

Our dogs pick up all sorts of stuff, carry the stuff around, and put it down where we want them to. And all we did to achieve it was play a game. Here’s how it goes:

“Pick up the thing” game

Get a bunch of treats, your clicker, and the “thing” you want your dog to pick up.

Put the thing on the floor and stand by it. If your dog looks at the thing, click and treat. Do that three times.

By the third time, your dog’s going to figure out that the “thing” gets him/her rewarded. You’ve added value to the “thing.”

When your dog “gets” this idea, ask for more. You don’t have to be quiet, still praise your dog for looking, but now save the treats for something more – touching the “thing” with his/her mouth. If your dog touches it with a paw, you can certainly encourage and praise. The treats should be “saved” for the actions that move the behavior forward – in this case we want the dog to pick up the thing.

That’s basically the sequence: introduce the thing and reward each step in the progression. Each dog’s steps may be different, but could include: look, sniff, lick, pick up. Then run away with the “thing” and show it off like a trophy as you run around!

If your dog does this, the impulse is to run after him and try to get it away. Instead, run with him, or away from him, encouraging your dog to come with you! If you’ve already gotten a box or bin you want the “thing” placed in, run over to that and encourage your dog to “drop” the thing.

No domination here

In just a few short sessions, you and your dog will have a new game to play. And you both had fun learning it. If your ambition includes obedience, it’s even a useful game. And nobody got hurt doing it.

Training games make great dog pictures

Want to take great dog pictures?

Turn “posing” into a training game!

Torque does not like having his picture taken.

If, like us, you have a dog that turns away every time a camera (or phone) is pointed at him, you know it can be challenging to get great pictures. Especially if, like ours, your dog is a dark color.

We don’t know why Torque tends to be camera-shy, but he is. So when we want to take his pictures, we make it part of a training game. That boy is all-in for any training game!

Move around

When starting the “pose” game, the first step is to have your dog stay in place while you’re moving around. Ask for your dog’s best position (sit or stay). Grab a handful of treats. Then start moving! As long as your dog stays in place, go back and reward every couple of steps. When you run out of treats, use your dog’s release word, and done!

When your dog is comfortable with your movement, try carrying your phone or camera with you while you move. Fake (or really) take pictures, stopping your motion, clicking the shutter, then moving again.

Get down

Down at Booker's level - a great picture.

We’re really short people, but we’re still much taller than our dogs. We’re even taller than our friends’ big dogs. The result is that most dog pictures are taken from above, and don’t show dogs’ real expressions.

The answer is to get down to a level even with your dog’s head. Then your dog’s face will show a natural expression – which is the one you know, love, and want to keep forever in good pictures.

The problem with getting down at your dog’s level is that it’s an unusual move for most people, and your dog won’t understand what you’re doing. If your dog is like ours, they’ll see it as an invitation to get up in your face and either lick, play, or have a “nutsy puppy” episode.

If this happens for you, make getting down to dog level part of the motion sessions. Your movement doesn’t have to be all standing up. Try crawling, kneeling, squatting and reward your dog for staying in place.

Look at everything

Aside from dogs not staying still, the biggest obstacle to getting a good portrait of your dog is clutter. Before you ask your dog for the sit or down, check the area you want to take the portrait. Frame it in your phone and look at every part of the area. Are there verticals that will give your dog antennae? Is there something bright or distracting in the background? Either shift where you’re working, or remove the object.

Lastly and most delicately

People with girl dogs don’t have this particular issue, but for those of us with boys – no one wants to see your dog’s boy bits in every picture. Three-quarter poses are excellent for using front legs as visual blocks. Over the years, with mostly boy dogs, we’ve become adept at hiding bits and we know you can, too!

Does your dog need “dog friends?”

Does your dog need “dog friends?” We see lots of new dog owners on our social media groups wanting to get together so their new dogs can play.

It’s not a bad idea, although there are some considerations to take into account. We’re not fans of “dog parks” for lots of reasons. The primary one is the lack of attention from other owners. They bring their dogs to the dog park, release them from the leash, and then socialize with other owners. All paying no attention to their dogs. Groups of dogs, especially if they don’t know each other well, tend to gang up on the new guy, or the smallest guy, or the most timid.

Dog friends are great if they all play nicely.

Small gatherings

Small groups of people who are acquainted, especially if they have the same breed of dog, are a better idea. Because different breeds were developed for different “jobs,” different breeds’ play styles can vary widely. We see it in our own home. The Boston Terriers have a very different (and much noisier) idea of play than the French Bulldog. The Bostons seem to think “chase, tackle, yell, repeat” is the way to go. When we had two French Bulldogs, they’d lie in a bed and “mouth wrestle.”

Together, they’ve developed a mash-up, which is loud, vigorous, and, in tight quarters, can take you out. It works for them.

Harmony at home

It’s important that all the dogs in a household get along. That circle should include extended “family” dogs. In ideal circumstances, if the dogs are healthy and sound, the best thing to do is let them figure it out for themselves. With careful monitoring at first, only gradually removing supervision over the course of time. Be sure all the dogs involved are able to “go away” when they’ve had enough. Puppies can be tiring, especially if you have an older or senior dog in the house.

Other buddies

The only dogs we require ours to be friends with are our other dogs. They see other dogs all the time – out on walks, at obedience class, at agility class, at rally class, at competitions for all of it. And we want our dogs to notice and ignore.

Not everyone has the same objective. It may be that you want your dog to play with other dogs. That’s fine, as long as your dog doesn’t try engaging with every dog you see when you’re out and about. Think about the circumstances when and where play with other dogs is appropriate, and try to confine it. When you’re out walking your dog, your pup should be able to notice another dog and still be able to continue calmly walking with you. (Check out Book 3: Let’s Go For a Walk. Games in there will show you how!)

If your dog sees another dog and immediately goes into “play with me!” mode, it’s time to work on some attention behaviors. Try to scan the area and take note of other dogs before your dog sees them. Ask for attention and reward heavily when you get it.

With consistency, rewards, and praise, you should start to see your dog “check in” with you before going into “play mode.” It’s up to you when and whether your dog gets to play with other dogs.

If you want your dog to have dog friends, control the relationship just as you would with a human toddler. The dogs have to play nice, no bullying allowed!