2 Minute Trainer

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An intro to 2-Minute Dog Training Games

If you’re not having fun training your dog, you’re doing it wrong!

If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong!

21st century dog training means having fun with your dog. If you’re not having fun, you’re doing it wrong! Dog training games are best for training, learning, and enjoying time with your dog.

Everybody, including your dog, learns better when they enjoy it! Fast, fun dog training games are the most effective way to teach your dog anything. From house-breaking to the showiest tricks, games are the way to go.

Your future with the 2 Minute Training Method

We’re Hope and Fran, creators of the 2 Minute Training method. We’ve developed this method so that in short bursts of training your dog will learn what’s expected of him and make good choices. Instead of a rowdy hooligan, he’ll be a joyful part of your family. Instead of having to lock the dog up when company arrives, he’ll be an integral part of the conversation. Your dog will no longer pull your arm out of the socket on walks. He’ll sit nicely for treats.

Sound too good to be true? It’s not!

This miracle won’t happen overnight, but it will happen, and it won’t be a miracle!

You”ll both practice to make it happen, and you’ll have such a good time you’ll want to do more.

Who we are

How do we know? Because we’re training our own dogs this way. Not traditional “most intelligent” dogs. Not Golden Retrievers. Not Border Collies. Not even Papillons or Pomeranians. These are dog breeds that are among the “smartest” and “most trainable.” Nope – Hope has a French Bulldog. Fran has a Brussels Griffon and two Boston Terriers. Not breeds you expect to see in the Obedience ring, and yet they’re advancing nicely in competition.

We also train fun stuff the same way – like “crawl,” “roll over,” and “sit pretty.” Even training the dogs to put their toys away!

Just short chunks of time. Maybe a few times a day. During commercial breaks in the evening. Or just one session before work.

Have fun with your dog!

It’s fun. We look forward to our short training sessions, and we know you will too.

Regrets, there’ve been a few

It’s fun having dogs who understand and know how to do stuff. If there’s something we want them to know, we figure out a game way to teach them. But over the years, there’s been some training, or lack thereof, that we regret. (Like eliminate on command.)

If you’re lucky enough to have an old dog, you know it’s not always easy. On those really bad-arthritis days, you feel like a tyrant making them get up and walk. But joints, like lots of things in life, are a “use it or lose it” proposition.

Tango is now 15 ½ years old. He’s little, so we have the option of carrying him around. But we don’t, except for stairs. He needs to move. We make him play “Put Your Toys Away” almost every day – at least he’s moving from the toy pile to the bin.

What we wish he knew: “eliminate on command”

The biggest regret is what we wish we’d taught him when he was young and spry. That’s to eliminate on command.

When Tango was young, he could “hold” for a dozen or more hours. He never messed in the house or had accidents. He also never had a predictable elimination schedule. It wasn’t a big deal then. If he had to go when he was outside, he did. If not, he didn’t.

Now, he can’t hold for a dozen hours. But he doesn’t like being out in the cold. And he doesn’t eliminate on command, because we never taught him. So he stands there, shivering (we are, too), and looking miserable. When we relent and bring him inside, he either paces around the house, or has an accident.

Think ahead

We’ve had dogs for so long that every floor is a dog-friendly surface. It’s not a big deal to clean up after Tango. But we wish we didn’t have to.

We’ve made sure to teach all the other dogs to eliminate on command. It’s easy to do – name it, praise it, reward it. Every time.

The other dogs aren’t young – 12. 10, and 6. And all of them know the commands “go poop” or “go pee.” A friend of ours used “hit it” as her dogs’ cue.

Think carefully about the name you give to your dog’s bathroom functions. And where you’re most likely to say it. If you’re in your own backyard, nobody’s around and it matters less. But if you’re in a more public place, will you be embarrassed to say “go poop?” If so, think of a lovely euphemism. Only you and your dog need to understand what you mean.

Language matters

A huge part of dog training is establishing communication between you. Dogs are capable of understanding dozens, if not hundreds, of words. Your job is teaching them the vocabulary they need.

You get to decide what every word means between you and your dog. Make your “potty” word something you’ll remember and use. And be sure it’s not a word your dog will hear all the time. That could get messy.

Try it without treats

One of our videos got a little traction this week on Tik Tok and we were fortunate to have quite a few people comment. Most were lovely, just hearts and admiration for Torque, Hope’s French Bulldog. It’s always nice when somebody else thinks your dog is as wonderful as you do. But there were also more than a few that implied his only motivation was the treats. And challenging us to “prove” he can do it without rewards. “Try it without treats” they said.

A different perspective

We know that Torque would play training games just for the fun of it. Would he be as eager? Probably not. And how would we communicate to him when he’s right? And when he’s not?

One of the first things we tell all our trainees is “Dogs learn by the timing and placement of rewards.” We say it early and often. Those rewards give your dog the immediate feedback: “Yes! That was good!” Withholding the rewards tells your dog “That’s not quite it. Try again.”

Many people seem to think that praise should be sufficient reward or motivation. Let’s put that in perspective.

For example: you have a great job in a great place with terrific colleagues. Everything about your job is great. Is a pat on the back from your boss sufficient reward? It’s really nice, but don’t you still want a paycheck?

Proving it to who?

Our response when challenged to create a video without using rewards was: Why should we?

The person came back with “To prove you can do it.”

To whom? And why? We’re not claiming that Torque is unique among dogs. Our goal is to encourage everyone to play training games with their own dogs. Because every single dog loves doing it. And everybody, dogs and people alike, has fun.

The challenge is seeing what your dog can do. Dogs have favorite games, just like people. Some dogs learn Puppy Push-ups in a week. Their 3-Step Pattern Walking takes no time at all. But they just can’t get the hang of “Place!” Or “Stay!”

The only opinion that matters

When you play training games and teach your dog only with reward-based training, there will be loads of people who “know a better, faster way.”

It’s absolutely true that punishment-based training is faster. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. If you’re okay with hurting your dog to achieve quick compliance, there are lots of trainers who teach “yank and crank” methods. But not in this space. And not in our classes.

No treats allowed

There are no treats or rewards allowed during dog sport competitions. You can’t bring anything into the competition ring but your dog. For those few minutes of judging, the dog gets no “reward” other than your smile.

If you’ve built sufficient value in the process, your dog will do what you ask. Just partnering with you, doing familiar, fun things will be enough. And, when your time in the competition ring is over, you can run over to your trial set-up and give your wonderful dog the jackpot they deserve.

Training a Stubborn Dog

It’s astonishingly easy to train a stubborn dog. You just have to keep one fact in mind: Dogs always do what’s most rewarding to them.

That’s true no matter what the circumstances. Dogs may not consciously or visibly weigh the options and “choose” to misbehave. But if what they get for being “good” isn’t as good as what being “bad” gets them, guess what happens?

Figuring it out

Your dog will show you what’s most valuable to them. Our dogs will figuratively walk through fire to get Chicken Heart Treats. It’s at the top of their reward list.

Second on the list for Simon is celery. Booker, on the other hand, thinks celery is disgusting and won’t go near it. If we ask Booker to do something and he knows celery is waiting, he’s not going to do it. Knowing this, we don’t ask.

Not always treats

Dogs are unique individuals with their own preferences. Each one’s motivation will be different. Simon and Booker are both Boston Terriers and are related. But their tastes are as different as can be.

Your dog may not be food motivated at all. But there’s got to be something that they love. Tossing a ball can be a reward. Playing tug can be your dog’s reward. Belly rubs can be a reward. Use what your dog wants to get what you want.

It’s deal-making

Training is a kind of bargain you make with your dog – even a to train a stubborn dog. They get what they want when you get what you want. It’s a great deal for everyone.

You have to stick to the agreement. If you start taking your dog for granted, they’ll stop holding up their end. Once your dog knows how to do something, you may not have to reward every time. Once your dog knows “Puppy Push-ups” you don’t have to reward every change of position. But there has to be something in it for them at some point.

From the dog’s perspective

You may wonder, “if dogs always do what’s most rewarding, why do they obey force trainers?” The answer is simple. The dog’s “reward” is not being punished. Dogs learn quickly how to avoid pain. That’s why force training is faster than positive reinforcement. Dogs aren’t stupid.

Dogs also deserve better. Once you appreciate how easy and fun it is to play training games, it’s addictive for both of you. So many of our students have told us how their dogs “nag” them to go play.

This or that?

Sometimes the behavior you’re asking for isn’t as rewarding as what the dog wants to do. We saw a good example recently making the “bowling” video with Torque. We used a big plastic bottle to demonstrate the first steps of the game. When it came time to show the actual game, Torque thought the big plastic bottle was more fun. He made a beeline for it, rather than knock down the pins.

He was showing Hope that the crunchy-sounding bottle was more fun, more rewarding than playing with her. She didn’t get mad, or accuse him of being stubborn. He was doing what was most rewarding at the time. She just reminded him that playing with her was also fun and rewarding.

Stubborn or clueless?

Motivation isn’t always the answer. Sometimes dogs truly don’t understand what their person wants. It could be a different place, or person, or situation that’s throwing off their game. Or it could be they really don’t know.

If that’s the case, you may see your dog disengage, walk away, turn their head, go sniff, scratch, yawn, or even just sit or lie down. These are indicators that your dog doesn’t want to make the “wrong” choice, but doesn’t know what you want. If you see this, back up a step or two, assess what’s different, and help them work through it. It’s not being stubborn. It’s confusion.

Rely on motivators

When you know what motivates your dog, your training gets a whole lot easier. If your dog doesn’t think dog biscuits are worth sitting for, don’t use dog biscuits. Go to the trouble of figuring out what’s most rewarding for your dog. Use it. And be amazed when your formerly stubborn dog is no longer stubborn.

Trick training builds confidence

One of our students resisted teaching her dog “tricks.” She thought it was silly, or beneath her dignity as a serious Obedience person. She still drags her heels when we come up with new behaviors. But we’ve convinced her that trick training builds confidence.

It’s kind of a “Freaky Friday” situation. One of our Rally Obedience class students was one of our first dog training instructors. She’s been, over lots of years, one of the top Obedience competitors in our region.

Back in the day, she was an old-school trainer and, like everybody at the time, we used “corrections” to teach our dogs. That was the accepted word for giving dogs a collar pop to let them know they’d done something wrong.

Fortunately, when you know better you do better, and we’ve all changed over to positive reinforcement training. We converted because we changed the way we think. Our student, let’s call her Celeste, has a dog that required the change.

Suddenly scared of the world

When her dog, a beautiful, well-bred sporting dog, was about 15 months old, something changed. A happy, confident puppy, she was suddenly scared of the world. Nobody but Celeste could touch her, she was hiding behind her mom’s legs.

Nothing bad happened to her. The veterinarians couldn’t find anything wrong. But this dog that was almost ready for Obedience competition now couldn’t even stop drooling in public.

Celeste, of course, was both puzzled and disappointed. The hopes and dreams she had for her dog flew out the window. Worse than starting from scratch, she now had to undo whatever demons now controlled her dog.

Getting past scared

The worst, of course, for the dog was the Novice exercise “Stand For Exam.” The dog has to stand stock still while the judge touches the dog’s head, shoulders, and hips. That’s all there is to it, but it was now impossible. She was so terrified that her “Stand” disappeared. Because she associated it with the dreaded touching.

Celeste started Rally class with this dog because, quite frankly, she doesn’t really care about Rally. In her mind, it’s a precursor for “real” Obedience. We knew this, and warmly welcomed her to class. Rally is more relaxed than Obedience, and a good place to practice all of the moves Obedience requires.

What Celeste wasn’t counting on was our insistence that she and her dog learn lots of little behaviors and “tricks.” She told us quite firmly that “I just don’t teach my dogs tricks.”

Nevertheless, she got on board. Her dog, already beautifully trained to do almost anything Celeste asked, started having fun putting some of those things together. Puppy Push-ups are a thing of beauty with this team. She resisted teaching “Roll Over,” but her dog loves it. The dog also loves “Sit Pretty,” walking backwards, sideways, and tons of others.

Opening doors

Teaching this dog “tricks” is restoring her confidence. She knows how to do things and gets rewarded for doing them. It’s given her a foundation of security. She knows what’s expected of her, knows she can do it, and even enjoys it.

Does the dog still get the heebie-jeebies? On occasion. Celeste is still prepared when it happens. But she’s also become convinced of the value of the little things, the “tricks” her dog does.

Teach your dog some tricks

Even if you don’t care about any kind of dog sports competition or training, teaching your dog little “tricks” builds their confidence. You may not care if your dog is a social media star, or has a whole string of performance titles. But you do care that your dog is happy and knows how to behave.

Dogs aren’t little minions we need to do our bidding. They are intelligent, social beings who love partnering with you, and doing stuff together.

Your house, your dog, your rules

When your parents (or in-laws) come over for the holidays, it may be the first chance you get to practice your grown-up parenting skills. And get a tiny bit of your own back for all those times you heard it as a teenager. “My house, my dog, my rules.” If you’re lucky, you get to practice when you have a dog and not a baby – those discussions are even more fraught.

It came up this week for a training class student of ours. Her mother was coming to visit from overseas. Her mother, who happens to be a fan of a famous dominance-based trainer. And who’s from a culture deeply ingrained with rules, discipline, and pretty much the opposite of reward-based training.

Before Mom arrived, our trainee wanted us to see what was happening with her dog. The pup (seven months old) had been boarded for a few days during Thanksgiving, and had come home with some atypical behaviors.

Not uncommon

Especially for puppies, boarding can be disruptive. The puppy’s schedule is discarded. Depending on the boarding situation, it may be anything from “run with a pack all day,” to stay-in-a-kennel except for yard time. None of the options is inherently bad. There are times when even the most devoted owner just can’t travel with their dog. Boarding is usually a safe option. Ideally, it’s also a comfortable choice and the dog will have some fun with either the staff or other dogs at the facility.

The best way to let your dog absorb the alternative is to practice. Like all things, dogs are adaptable beings if introduced to new things gradually. If your dog goes to a doggy day care that also does boarding, that’s a good place to start. The dog already has a good time during the day. Try to book a single night before a longer stay is necessary. Let the dog see the new routine. And pick them up early the next morning so the dog knows you’re always going to come back.

This dog didn’t get a practice boarding session. After a few days she came home rather insecure and unsettled. She was barking uncharacteristically at people coming into the house. Even at her own family and the family’s familiar baby-sitters.

Back to her comfort zone

So we became the dog’s “cookie people.” That’s a technique straight out of the “Reactive Dog Recipe.” Most reactive dogs are afraid. The objective is to teach them that new people are sources of delicious treats and completely non-threatening. Basically, we walked into the house and threw treats on the floor in front of the dog while we talked to the people. We didn’t look at the pup, we certainly didn’t talk to her. Just calmly had a conversation with her people. In this case, because the dog was just a bit unsettled, not really reactive, and we’re familiar to her, it took less than five minutes for her to calm down.

With Mom arriving two days later, the puppy’s owner now had a plan of action. Leave the pup in her crate until Mom came in, got comfy, and was ready to greet the dog. Remember – your house, your dog, your rules.

Until, of course, Mom came and refused to reward a dog that was barking at her. It looks that way to someone who doesn’t take into account the dog’s emotional state, fear. Barking is actually a low-grade response to fear – our own Tango’s fear-aggression came out in lunging, snarling, and trying to bite. Since Mom wouldn’t get on board, the owners did the treat-tossing. Not ideal, but Mom doesn’t get to decide – not her house, her dog, or her rules.

Familiarity breeds comfort

With this approach, the puppy getting treats every time she saw Mom, the dog was able to relax and accept the new person in just a couple of days. There was no interaction between them until the dog was ready to initiate it. Taken at the puppy’s pace, everything is working out great. They sent us a picture of the puppy relaxing on the couch with Mom today. Everything’s going to be fine. Until Dad arrives tomorrow and we start all over again.

Dog Training Game: Teach Your Pup to Pull

There are some dogs who are naturals at opening doors, drawers, or figuring out any obstacle that stands between them and their goal. If you have a dog that opens doors, drawers, hampers, garbage cans, you probably don’t need this game. The Teach Your Pup to Pull game is for the rest of us, whose dogs sit there and look at you with adorable puppy-dog eyes. And plead with you to open the goodie cabinet.

How it started

Hope had the notion that she’d like to create a little skit with Torque, using his various behaviors to tell a story. The idea came from watching the amazing winners of the AKC’s Virtual Trick Dog Championship. There’s nothing in those videos that’s beyond any of our dogs, it’s just a matter of putting the pieces together.

One of the behaviors needed for the scenario Hope imagined was for Torque to open a drawer to find a clue to the mystery. It seems a simple enough trick – after all, most dogs, including Torque, love to play tug.

It turned out not to be so simple after all. An essential component of “Tug!” Is someone on the other end providing resistance. Pulling a drawer open isn’t the same, from the dog’s point of view. We’d have to teach our pup to pull

How it’s going

The first step was choosing something to attach to the drawer that Torque could pull on. When you see videos of dogs opening stuff, generally speaking there’s a towel, rope, or piece of cloth for them to grab.

That was a no-go for Torque. He would pick up a rope, but not have any idea what to do with it once he was holding it. Part of the issue was the drawer set we were using (pictured). There really isn’t a handle that a dog can grab. The knob is too small to have a large rope around it.

To move on to the meatier parts of the behavior, Hope tied a familiar “put it away” object to the rope, a plastic spatula. Torque knew it from the other game.

The next obstacle was getting him to take the tied-on spatula away from the drawers. He was absolutely convinced that putting it on top of the drawer set was the answer we were looking for. It wasn’t, but we had to find a way to let him know that.

Using familiar game parts

To give him a goal away from the drawers, we used the bin we always use for “Put Your Stuff Away” games. We placed it well away from the drawers, placed the spatula well away from the drawers, and made sure we were facing the bin, rather than the drawers. Dogs pay attention to where you’re headed, so your direction matters.

Torque recognized the setup right away. He grabbed that spatula and headed for the bin. As soon as the drawer was clear of its housing, Hope clicked and rewarded, well short of the bin. That was letting Torque know he’d already done what she wanted.

As Torque becomes more sure of the behavior that’s wanted, we’ll be able to place the bin even farther away and eventually stop using it. The latest modification was to put treats in the drawer as soon as it was opened up. This lets Torque know he’d achieved the objective.

How it’s going

We’re making progress, even though we only play “Pull!” a couple times a month. Torque is starting to understand the word “Pull!”, although he still needs the bin for a target.

This game, like all training games beyond the essentials (come, stay, sit, etc.), is just for fun and a chance to build on the dog’s repertoire. It’s always fun to have something new to play with – whether it’s a new toy or a new training game. Keeping many different skills in the rotation ensures that neither you nor your dog will get tired of playing training games together.

Dog Training Isn’t Always the Answer

We got a rather urgent email from a long-time training student this week. Her dog had bitten a groomer at the doggy day care facility and she was rather frantically trying to deal with her dog’s sudden aggression. We had to tell her that dog training isn’t always the answer.

What’s Really Happening

Of course we called her right away to get the story. In addition to the bite, the dog had also growled and almost-snapped at her husband. The husband, who had adopted the dog from a shelter five months ago, was ready to return the dog immediately. The wife was distraught, upset both by the dog’s behavior and the thought of giving him up.

Neither of the couple is an experienced dog owner, so neither had a good idea of what was going on.

With the information the woman provided, our advice was to carefully consider the option of returning the dog to the shelter. Generally speaking, dogs adopted from shelters need at least three months before they feel comfortable in a new home and start showing their true personalities. If this dog’s nature was actually reactive, it wouldn’t be a good fit with this family. They already have a beautifully-trained Rottweiler and are planning for children in the next few years.

Getting More Complicated

The woman had already contacted the shelter about the bite. They got back to her saying that a dog with a bite history would automatically be euthanized. If they returned the dog, it was a death sentence. The shelter’s only suggestion was an introduction to another trainer to assess the dog. The options seemed to be getting narrower.

At this point, with the information we had, the choices were all bad. So we contacted the owner of the day care where the incident happened. We’re friends with the owner, and trust her opinion as a savvy dog person.

The Story Gets Clearer

It turns out that the dog has always been a happy, playful guy who’s never given them cause for concern. About a month ago, he was sidelined by illness. Kennel cough developed into pneumonia. He hasn’t been feeling great for a while now.

It was his first time back at day care, and the owners opted for a bit of a spa day – bath and nail trim. Like many dogs, this one didn’t much care for the ramp up to the tub, so the groomer was picking him up. When she touched his legs he reacted with the bite.

Talking to the dog’s owner, the incident with her husband also happened when he touched the dog’s leg.

Light Bulb Moment

The day care owner and we immediately recognized that the dog was showing symptoms of pain. Whenever a dog reacts atypically to normal things, the first thought should be “something’s going on there.”

The dog doesn’t need training for this. Dog training isn’t always the answer. He needs to see a veterinarian to figure out what’s happening that’s causing him to react atypically.

We called the owner back with this news. We also advised her to give the vet’s office a “heads up” that the dog would probably need to be muzzled for the examination. All dogs are capable of lashing out when they’re in pain. And all dogs should be muzzle-trained, just in case. Of course training to put the muzzle on your dog should be approached the same way as all other training – in fast, fun, game-based sessions.

She was relieved to hear that her dog probably hadn’t morphed into Cujo overnight. She also asked something that emphasized their inexperience with dogs. “Don’t dogs show signs when they’re in pain?”

No, they don’t. Dogs typically don’t show any signs of weakness or pain until it’s far advanced. Experienced dog owners know to consult medical professionals when their dogs seem “off.” The first, subtle signs of something wrong are clues only the dog’s owner will see. Combining these owners’ inexperience and the dog’s newness in the household, it was easy to miss.

We’re waiting to hear what the veterinarian discovers. But the dog’s future looks better today than it did.

Every Stop Needs a Go

A “Stay!” Is your dog’s stop sign. Whatever position they’re in. Wherever they are. The release word you choose is the dog’s signal to move. Every stop needs a go.

Let’s say you’re driving around the city in fairly heavy traffic. You come to an intersection and the light turns red as you approach. Theoretically, you passed your driver’s license test, so you know you have to stop. And you also know you’re not going anywhere until the light turns green. Until you get your release signal.

Picture what would happen if nobody knew those signals. If every car just went on its merry way whenever the driver felt like it. The traffic wouldn’t be heavy. It would be chaotic.

Dog traffic signals

Teaching your dog the “Stay!” won’t work until you pair it with a release word. If dogs are allowed to self-release from a stay, then “Stay!” means nothing.

You know you want your dog to stay while you’re accepting a delivery and the door’s open. You want them to stay put until the door is safely shut again. But your dog doesn’t know that. They don’t understand “Stay until I close the door.” Dogs can understand “Stay until you hear your release word.” Your “Place” game will help with this, too.

Motion triggers

Most dogs will move when you move. They try to keep you in sight. When our students are teaching their dogs “Stay!” most pair a step and/or arm motion when giving their release word. Dogs are really good at absorbing the whole picture. If you stand stock still while your dog is holding a “Stay!” and move when you release them, that’s what they learn. They stay when you stay, they move when you move.

That’s why you have to disconnect your motion from both the “Stay!” and “Free!” commands. You have to be able to move when your dog is staying. And you must not move when releasing your dog from a “Stay!”

Make it easy for your dog

The best way to confuse your dog is being okay with them getting it wrong. If they move before you release them, they don’t understand either stop or go. Trying to fix something just confuses them even more. If they break the “Stay!” just move to a new position and start again.

Dogs trained with positive reinforcement know there are no horrible consequences for getting stuff wrong. They’re not afraid to try again. And most dogs really want to get it right, so they work with you. Because they also know there’s a celebration jackpot when they get it right. Every stop needs a go. Make it easy for your dog to get that jackpot.

Training Game: Target Training

Target training is one of those dog skills that gets more useful the longer you know it. When your dog will reliably go to a target and touch it, the possibilities are endless. You can bring your dog in close, or send them far away. If you play dog sports, like agility, it can even help your dog understand what bits of the obstacles they must touch.

If your dog already knows “Touch!” you’re a good chunk of the way to target training. Instead of your hand, the target is an object, like the lid of a plastic container, that can be easily moved. That way you can even teach your dog to go away from you. Achieving training at a distance is something many trainers aspire to. Target training your dog will help you get there.

Possibly the most useful part of target training is giving your dog something to do in a stressful situation. Let’s imagine you have to walk through a crowded area with your dog. If your dog will, reliably, stay focused on touching the target, you can sail through without problems. It sure beats having to worry about all the little things that might distract or upset your dog and cause them to react poorly.

Calming their nerves

All of the little focus games we play are meant to make life easier. Teaching your dog how to deal with stress, especially if you have an anxious dog, is important. Giving your dog something familiar, repetitive, and enjoyable to do helps with stress. Target training can also include an element of “find it,” and expands on the possibilities of “Touch!” where you’re always in reach.

The first thing to do is decide on a target object. It can be anything you choose, so think about where and when you might use it. We generally use plastic lids from assorted food products – cottage cheese, butter, sour cream. Ice cream lids work well, too. And provide a reason to buy ice cream.

While you’re choosing, think about the color of the item. It should be highly visible on whatever surface you tend to practice on. We have blue matting on the floor, so the white lids are a bright contrast.

First step

If you’ve been following 2-Minute-Trainer for any time, you’ll recognize the first part of the process. All you have to do is put the target on the floor, stare at it, and wait for your dog to do something. If your dog looks at it, or sniffs it, or licks it, put a treat on the target. Don’t feed the dog from your hand. Put it on the target. We want the dog to understand that good things happen on the target when they interact with it. If your aim is a nose touch, don’t reward the dog for pawing at the target. Likewise, if they pick it up in their mouth, no reward. Be specific about what you want. Reward only when you get it.

If you’re not in a position to reward (you have to go get more treats), be sure to pick up the target so the dog doesn’t have access. If they perform the behavior you want and don’t get rewarded (you weren’t there), the learning flow will be disrupted. The value of touching the target will diminish for every touch that doesn’t get rewarded.

On your merry way

Most dogs pick up on target training almost immediately. When you’re pretty sure that your dog understands the idea, move the target around. Will they follow it? If you hold it up, will they reach to touch it? What about if someone else places it across the room? Will they search for it and play hide and seek?

Target training can prove incredibly powerful. Hope’s French Bulldog girl Dax loved her targets. Their first-ever agility competition was held at an indoor soccer arena. Needless to say, there are all kinds of white circles painted in the turf in the venue. Dax had to go and touch each of them, sure there would be treat. It wasted a little time, but they did qualify and Dax was more relaxed, knowing she had a job to do.

If you are involved in any dog sports, you can use the target to teach your dog correct performance of several different exercises and obstacles. For agility, a target at the end of the dog walk teaches the dog to touch the entire down side. Likewise with the A-Frame. In Obedience, placed at the landing side of the Broad Jump, it teaches the dog to jump straight out before coming to “Front!”

Use it wherever

If you’re using the target as a training tool, teaching your dog where you want him to go, be sure it’s pre-baited with a treat or that someone will be nearby to reward immediately. If dogs don’t get rewarded for doing things right, there’s no reason for them to continue doing it. Once the dog learns the behavior, you can randomize and eventually eliminate the target, if you choose. If/when you do, be sure to maintain the rate of reward. The target was a tool to “explain” the behavior to the dog and your good dog deserves to be rewarded for it.

Watch your body language when dog training

Most people in dog training classes don’t realize how carefully dogs watch your body language. They notice everything. Without realizing it, you could be sending your dog a message you don’t intend.

The one we see most often is in heeling exercises. Ideally, your dog’s shoulder should be about even with your left leg. Your dog’s job is to maintain that position whenever you’re heeling.

Many dogs lag a bit behind their people, especially when performing turns or circles with the dog on the outside of the curve.

It’s perfectly natural. The dog has a longer path than yours when they’re on the outside. But it’s not what you want. Your dog should adjust their pace to maintain proper heel position.

But when the dog starts to lag, the person almost always glances back, over their shoulder, to see where the dog is. Their left shoulder moves back, and the dog notices that and lags even more.

Fix it

The cure for this is easy. Keep your shoulders straight and the dog will hustle to get up into the correct position. But remembering to do that takes some effort. That’s one of the reasons we encourage all our students to take video of their practice. Pay careful attention to the message your posture is communicating.

Another common body language cue also tells the dog “back up.” You can demonstrate this for yourself with any dog – even one who’s never done any obedient thing in their life. Call your dog to you. If they come nice and close in front of you, lean forward, just a little bit. Chances are they’ll back up immediately. That’s how sensitive your dog is to your body language. Even a slight lean is enough to make many dogs move.

Stay woes

Dogs’ responsiveness to our physical cues has caused many problems for people teaching their dogs to stay. At first, while the dog is learning, any motion on your part is enough to ruin your dog’s stay. Dogs have to be actively taught to ignore our motion when asked.

When you start to teach your dog “Stay!,” don’t move. Just the hand rewarding the dog should be your only motion. Any twitch, glance, or lean can cue an untrained dog to move. Introduce motion gradually, after your dog has some inkling of what stay is about. If your dog is in front of you, just lean to one side or the other. When they can “Stay!” through your lean, take a baby step to either side. Then a real step. It really is a step-by-step process to be able to walk around your dog.

Notice your motion

Smart dog owners will be able to take advantage of their dog’s body language perception. We use very subtle cues to let our dogs know their positioning isn’t quite right. If the dog is coming to “Heel!” and stops a bit too far back, a little shoulder twitch tells them to move up. A weight-shift from one side to the other corrects their course on a Recall.

For many of the training games, your first cue to your dog is looking at the object, whether it’s a dog bed for “Place!” or your own hand for “Touch!” Your attention to that thing will draw your dog’s. Another easy experiment: Stare at the ceiling. It won’t take long before your dog is looking up, too!