Puppy Basics: Housebreaking How-To

Whether you’ve just welcomed your first puppy ever, or are an experienced dog owner, it’s a good idea to review the puppy basics. Your puppy is learning from you every moment of every day – it’s smart to get them off to a good start. The most fundamental “good manners” behavior is housebreaking.

Always be aware

It’s a good thing that puppies are so adorable – because they’re also a lot of work. Before you know it, they can become little dictators, taking control of every moment of every day. And it’s hard to realize it’s happening while it’s happening. But if you get to the point where you haven’t showered in three days, you haven’t eaten a meal without puppy in your lap, or you’ve forgotten how to talk in a normal tone – puppy has taken over.

It’s not too late. It’s never too late. Dogs actually like schedules, rules, and to know what’s expected of them. Your puppy will adapt to structure like a duck to water. You’re not being “mean” by imposing the rules, you’re making sure that your puppy will be a confident, polite member of your family who will be welcomed wherever you go.

How to do it

Simon, Boston Terrier, is perfectly comfortable in his crate.
Simon loves his crate!

Get a crate for your dog. Metal is best because your puppy won’t be able to destroy it, even when he or she starts teething and chewing everything. 

The crate should be big enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down. That’s it. If the crate is large enough for your puppy to avoid a “mess” – he’ll find a corner to make the mess. 

That crate is about to become the focal point for your dog. We want him to love it, consider it his bed, home, and comfort. It’s never to be used for punishment.

Back in the olden days, dogs were confined to kitchens or bathrooms when we tried to teach housebreaking. It was ineffective, took forever, and didn’t clearly define boundaries for the dog. Crate training is faster, better, and easier. We just had to get away from the notion that a cage is a bad place for a dog. It helps if you think of it as your dog’s “room.” Going to your room to sleep, relax, and nap is a good thing. It’s a good place, familiar and comfortable.

Use the crate constantly

Your puppy’s crate should move around the house. Where you and puppy are, it should be, too. If you’re having a meal, feed your puppy in the crate at the same time. If you’re in bed, puppy’s crate should be in your room, elevated where your puppy can see you, or even on the bed if there’s enough space. It’s an integral part of your life now.

And whenever you are not actively watching your puppy, puppy should be in the crate. Every single minute you can’t pay attention. When you’re: showering, getting dressed, cooking, talking on the phone, textiing, doing housework, taking out the garbage. All the time. 

The only way to learn your puppy’s “signals” that he has to eliminate is to be watching him. Some puppies circle, some look for an isolated spot, some have almost no signals whatsoever and just “stop, drop, and go.” You won’t know your puppies indicators unless you’re watching.

Scheduled outings

There are certain times that you absolutely know your puppy needs to eliminate. These are perfect opportunities to let him know where you want it to happen, and that it’s a good thing. Be prepared with a container of treats near the door. Grab a handful and be prepared to take your puppy out:

  • When he wakes up 
  • After a vigorous play session
  • 10 to 20 minutes after a meal
  • 15 minutes after a drink of water
  • About every two hours for puppies eight to 12 weeks old. 

Dog experts suggest that puppies are able to “hold” during the day as many hours as months-old they are.

“Potty walks” are different from training walks, or neighborhood jaunts. All of them are important, but “potty walks” are just that. Pick a spot where you’d like your dog to eliminate, go there and wait. When your puppy delivers, reward him and say “good potty,” or whatever word you want to use. If he doesn’t eliminate in five or so minutes, take him back to his crate and try again in 10 minutes. And again. 

Night time is a bit different. Most puppy parents are hyper-alert and will awaken when their puppies whine. That whining could mean the pup needs to eliminate, but it can also mean he’s lonely. Most puppies have siblings that they’ve been sleeping with their whole lives. Being alone for the first time can be difficult. 

Until you learn your puppy’s “schedule” – do take him out and don’t assume that he doesn’t have to go. If he still won’t settle, we have no problem with gentle petting and comforting your pup, either by reaching in, or letting him have some lap time. We know there are trainers who will advise against “spoiling” puppies this way, but we don’t think it’s a problem. This dog will be your companion throughout his life. And he doesn’t have to grow up to be a responsible taxpayer.

When puppy starts to “get it”

It won’t take long before you learn each other’s routines. As you become confident that your puppy is starting to understand the rules of the house, you can allow more “free time” away from the crate. This doesn’t mean ever ignoring your pup. Never ignore your pup. 

The next step is attaching your puppy to you with a harness and leash. You can go about your routine, and puppy can “help.” If your hands are free, you can certainly hold the leash. More likely you’ll be busy doing “stuff.” Attach the end of the leash through a belt loop, or secure it any way you can. That way, if you’re folding laundry and feel the puppy start to pull away, you’ll realize there’s a situation evolving and can make a dash for the door.

If you notice your puppy having an “accident” in the house, make a loud noise away from the puppy (like dropping a book) to interrupt the process, pick him up and go outside. Praise and reward when he finishes up where he’s supposed to go. Don’t punish him. When you come back in, pop him in his crate with a treat or a chew toy while you clean it up. Then resume normal life as if it didn’t happen.

If you notice an accident after the fact, just clean it up. Bringing the puppy back to the “scene of the crime” won’t do any good. Rather than learn not to eliminate in the house, the puppy will learn to eliminate where you can’t see it or find it. Dogs live in the moment, without really a “cause and effect” mentality. They’re also smart. If “finding” the accident results in something bad, they’ll solve the problem by hiding it, rather than not doing it.

Alone time

It’s wonderful if you have the time to spend your puppy’s first few days at home with him. But he’s also going to have to learn that that’s not “real life.” Be sure in the course of your day that puppy spends time alone in his crate – either in another room, or actually leave the house without him. If you build a routine for leaving that your dog knows and enjoys, you can avoid fostering separation anxiety.

A wonderful “trick” is to have a hollow, rubber toy (two holes are essential, so there’s no “vacuum” effect). Stuff it with a mixture of plain yogurt and your dog’s food, freeze it, and give it to your dog when you leave the house. This extra-special treat will be something to look forward to, instead of making your departure stressful. 

Likewise, when you come home, develop a matter-of-fact routine. Just come in quietly, grab your dog’s collar or harness and leash, open the crate, lift him out, hook him up, and go out. 

Your dog will take his cues from you. If you treat coming and going like “no big deal,” your dog should, too.